Sunday, September 26, 2010

Planet Baobab: Chobe National Park, Botswana


I emerged from the bowels of the Delta no worse for the ware, although I was filthier than my dog that rolls around in its own poo. I mean, there was a definitive line of dirt from where my flip flops had been. SICK. Never has a shower felt so good, or rather...a huge running jump into this pool:


After the Delta, I arrived at our next campsite...Planet Baobab. This campsite was Heaven after the hot, sweaty Delta. My return to civilization was marked by the coolest decorations I've seen on my travels thus far! The bar had huge chandeliers made out of Black Label and Castle (South African beer) bottles, and vibe of the bar was Texas roadhouse meets Ikea...so fun, so...Africa.



Planet Baobab is named after the many Baobab trees that are present throughout the camp. The Baobab tree is pretty neat, as it towers above all of the other trees in the African Savannah. The Baobab is called the Tree of Life, and with good reason. It is capable of providing shelter, food and water for the animal and human inhabitants of the Savannah. The cork-like bark is fire resistant and is used for cloth and rope. The leaves are used for condiments and medicines. The tree is capable of storing hundreds of liters of water, which is tapped in dry periods. Mature trees are frequently hollow, providing living space for numerous animals and humans alike. Trees are even used as bars, barns and more!! The Baobab is also featured as the Tree of Life in the "Lion King" (ie: Rafiki's tree!) and is the centerpiece of the entire African Kingdom (in the Lion King, that is)!!!!!!!!! Radio-carbon dating has measured that age of some Baobab trees at over 2,000 years old!!!!!!!!

From Planet Baobab, we ventured into Chobe National Park, by way of boat and overland truck. Although I saw a lot of neat animals, the experience paled in comparison to what I saw during my trip to Kruger National Park. This time, I was able to see different animals--lots of crocodiles, hippos, and even a giant lizard called a "water monitor." My absolute favorite moment was on our boat ride back to camp, where against the setting sun, along the banks of the river was a lone bull elephant. Although the picture defies all conceptions of a "good" photograph (ie: the composition is weak, and it's incredibly back lit) I adore it. In so many ways, it exemplifies what my trip to Africa has given me: serenity.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Franstar: Okavanga Delta, Botswana



I knew I was in for the time of my life when our tour group was told that in order to get to the "boat station" to leave for the Okavanga Delta, we were going to have to undertake an hour long, open-air, overland vehicle drive through the desert. And let me tell you--they made the drive sound appealing. In actuality, while I was sitting on top of all of my worldly possessions, trying not to fly off of the truck, or inhale sand to the point of asphyxiation, I realized that I was actually better off with the Toddler in the Cockpit. Either way, I chalked the truck ride up to just another adventure on my travels throughout Africa.

In order to travel throughout the Delta, you ride in hollowed out, wooden canoes called mekoros. After our hour-long roller-coaster ride throughout the desert, the small dirt road we were driving on opened up, and all of a sudden I was at a bustling hub. I had arrived at the mekoro station! This "station" can only be likened to Grand Central. Overland trucks were parked askew, what seemed like masses of people were milling about, different languages were flying around, domesticated and wild animals were searching for new friends...it was just an utterly chaotic, swarm of activity. And I loved it. While our mekoros were being loaded up, all of us took the opportunity to find a quiet bathroom, and slather ourselves with sunscreen and insect repellent (Look Mom! No sunburn or Malaria!). It didn't take long for our mekoros to be ready to go, and I was off on a two hour ride up the Okavanga to our campsite!

I was a sly little weasel and managed to grab shot-gun in the mekoro I shared with my friend, Haley. Much to my disappointment, karma came back at me when I realized that being in the front meant many encounters with various arachnids and amphibians. These little buddies got knocked off of the reeds and tall grasses they inhabited when we traveled through dense areas. Although I got used to it, the experience left me riddled with many a spider bite which left my legs looking disease ridden for a week post-vacation.


It also did not take me long to establish a love-hate relationship with the pure power of the heat in the Delta. Never, ever, have I been so hot in my life. (This may have had to do with the "sun sensitivity" side effect of my malaria medication, but I'm not sure. It was pretty hot.) Luckily, after we set up camp on a small island within the Delta, relief came in the form of our local "swimming hole." An excited frenzy stirred throughout our camp when our trusted leader and guide, Ruth, came back from checking out the swimming hole, soaking wet. She had given the swimming hole her safety seal of approval, and so off we went. The prospect of cooling water never seemed so fantastic. We took a short mekoro ride to the coveted location, only to realize that our "swimming hole" was merely a break in the reeds and grass. It was quite comical watching everyone slide into the water, without trying to tip over the mekoros, and it was even more entertaining to watch everyone freak out by how slimy the undergrowth of the Delta was. Every time I moved I thought I was getting attacked by hippos or other underwater creatures because the lily pads and other various grasses seemed to attack my legs. (Tangent: The experience was very reminiscent of the 4th Harry Potter book when Harry has to rescue Ginny from the underwater merepeople, and he gets attacked by all of the slimy little evil tad poles) All in all, the experience was more frightening than expected (which seemed to be a common theme throughout the entire duration of my spring break trip) but awesome none the less.


My first night in the Delta was defined by the absolute wonder of the best star gazing I think I will ever see. Before the Delta, I never understood what was meant by the "Milky Way." I mean, I understood the concept, and I could picture in my mind what the Milky Way would look like in the sky, but I had never seen it before. Well, that changed my first night in the Delta. I was overcome with child-like wonder when I looked up to the sky, rather naively, pointed at the Milky Way, and said aloud: "Wow! Look at that milkly band of stars! What is that?!" (I then felt rather stupid and was relieved that no one heard me.) You could see so many other things in the night sky that were just amazing--planets, nearly all of the various constellations...The night quickly became my favorite part of the few days I spent in the Delta. It's cloaking of the heat and unparalleled marvel of the sky was so wondrous. (Side note: I know the pictures don't correspond with my last two little stories, but they were too cool not to post.)



The majority of our time in the Delta was taken up by various mekoro rides to neighboring islands, as well as lots of nature walks. This is what a typical day consisted of:



I was so excited to see a hippo foot print! My other favorite nature encounter was the discovery of "monkey balls", which are large tree nuts that elephants swallow. Because the digestive system of elephants is rather weak, they poop out these nuts whole!! The cool thing about monkey balls getting pooped out by elephants, is that after they have been digested, the outer skin of the nut becomes weak. This allows one to carve neat patterns and designs into the monkey balls. So, at camp that night, my fellow trip mates got to try to carve our very only monkey balls that had gotten pooped out by real live elephants. I really don't think anything can beat that.

All of these experiences would not have been possible without one very important person. And that person is my little man, Francis. Or, as I lovingly called him: Franstar. Franstar embodied his nickname...he was a star. A true gem. As the Lieutenant Commander of the mekoro fleet, Francis out shinned his counterparts in his ability to "pull" our mekoro the fastest. He also had an unparalleled sense of direction, often taking Haley and I along the "back" routes that no one else seemed to travel along or through. Above all else, Franstar was a true legend because of his willingness to show us traditional African dances. Allegedly, these dances gave thanks to frogs. This "dance" consisted of us jumping around on the ground, pretending as if we were frogs. Franstar may have made up this "traditional" African dance in order to make fun of ignorant Americans, but if so, he never let on. So to Franstar: Cheers. You rocked.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Toddler in the Cockpit: Maun, Botswana



Quick recap: My adventure to Botswana started at a bright and early 3:45am. In typical African style, our transport to the airport was late...so much so that we almost missed our flight! (This was further compounded because some idiot forgot his passport and we had to turn the bus around.) When we arrived at the airport, the airlines had a whole counter ready for us. Luckily, we made it one time. After arriving in Joberg, we boarded our huge overland truck and trekked across the border to Botswana and we camped for the first night in the middle of nowhere. The second day, after 6 hours in the truck, we finally arrived in Maun.

We arrived in Maun in the early afternoon. We had lunch, set up our campsite, and did the daily run to the bar for ice cold bottled water and diet cokes. (This ritual became a frenzied rush every time we arrived at a new campsite.)

After lunch, we went on a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta. The Okavango is a labyrinth of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels covering an area of over 17,000 square km and is the largest inland delta in the world. Trapped in the parched Kalahari sands, the Delta is created by the rainfall it receives from Angola.


The Maun airport was officially the smallest airport I have ever been in (one of my many African firsts). My 4 friends and I eagerly awaited for our pilot in the "terminal" which was about the size of my living room. When Paul came in and introduced himself to us, we were overcome with giddy girl excitement. At first glace, we were smitten with his good looks, overall charm, and disarming (read: sexy) accent. But those feelings slowly dissipated when we realized that Paul could have easily been 15 years old, and definitely weighed less than us. And no one wants a pre-pubescent boy zipping them around in mini planes. That's just reckless and terrifying. So before he strapped us all in and sealed the door to the plane--we just had to ask: "Paul, um, I'm sure you get this a lot, but how old are you?" Well, what do you know, Paul just so happened to be 21, and had been flying for 5 whole years. Although our feelings of fright did not dissolve with this information (hello, the plane had 6 seats and looked like a slightly larger version of what little toddlers play with) it did justify all of the wildly inappropriate comments we were muttering behind his back. Check out Paul and his beauty of a plane:



And here's all of us smashed into the back of the plane, smiling to hide our nervousness about flying with some hooligan:



Paul somehow managed to take off, fly for 45 minutes (without turbulence I might add) and land us safely back on ground. I'm still skeptical that he was a licensed pilot. He just looked so little. All in all, it was really awesome to see the Delta from the air and know that in less than 24 hours I would be camping on its banks, swimming in its channels, and traveling throughout it in mekoros!

Spring Break 2k10 [squared]

 


I never thought I would be so excited to see paved roads or have clean water, that is, until I went on my second Spring Break trip of the year (lucky me!) throughout the African wilderness of Botswana, and Zambia (with a small afternoon in Zimbabwe, but I feel like I'm cheating when I claim to have "visited"). This will be the first post of many detailing my adventures over the week, as there were so many!

If I may be so bold, I believe this toilet exemplifies the many continued ironies I observed throughout my trip, and I would like to use it as a segway to discuss some interesting observations I made over my break. First, what's with this toilet? It is literally just in the middle of the wilderness, which in itself is quite contradictory. The fusion of modernity and the wild gone all wrong, really. While going potty, I could only feel confused. I wanted to be in a safe, warm, enclosed bathroom but alas, mosquitoes were landing on my bum and frogs were jumping around my feet. It was as if the proprietors of the campsite couldn't make up their mind as to the aesthetic of their lodge: "Shall we go for a rustic, hole in ground approach? Or maybe some sturdy, standard bathrooms? Naw, let's just stick a toilet in the open. Given our guests a little bit of both." Anyway...

A List of Things That Don't Exist in Africa:
1. Speed limits. Which becomes a problem when the only paved road is the main "highway". Our overland truck really should have come with a disclaimer: "Free roller coaster rides when on unpaved roads!"

2. Trashcans and/or means of trash disposal. Litter is EVERYWHERE--on the side of the road, in the streets. It flies about in the atmosphere. Stray dogs are constantly eating it. It's piled in deep holes. It's just so, sad.

3. Sunscreen. For being a place where the sun blazes down at you, all hours of the day, and is utterly inescapable, one would assume that measures to combat sunburn and other aliments would form a large market. Alas, this is not true. Sunscreen does not exist in Africa. Anywhere. Ironic.

4. Standardized currency. In Zimbabwe especially, they have no government supported monetary system. They run off of the South African rand and the American dollar (And never have I seen people so excited at the sight of an American dollar. Dollars are equated with a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, the holy grail, a miracle.)

5. Properly priced Pringles (say that 5 times fast). For some reason, Pringles are the most expensive snack here. One little canister will put you back a whopping $12. I learned this the hard way on a quick rest stop.

Lastly, a question to ponder:
Why do clay huts located in poverty ridden, minuscule villages (without running water, means of education, or transportation) have HUGE TV SATELLITE DISHES attached to their thatched roofs?!

I'm still grappling with this. Literally, wherever our travels would take us, no matter how remote or distant from civilization, every hut in every village had huge satellite TV dishes. How these were attached to roofs made out of dried grass still boggles my mind.

Needles to say, my Spring Break travels finally landed me in the midst of the "real" Africa. The adventures that ensued were nothing short of priceless. Stay tuned!



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